will work. Only to install a freshly done set of 670 heads and a new style rear main. I just need a little help. Loosen up until it starts clattering tighten till it stops and then 1/2 turn and lock it down. did you buy a new cam?don't put new lifters on an old cam or you'll scap the cam,also the only gain switching to the performer is weight savings,everybody says XE262H is one of the best cam out there right now,im running the old school 268H,(pulls REAL hard till 4500RPM and then runs out of steam) it was in the engine when i got it the car,it doesn't require adjustable vavle train but this year i switched to full adjustable with roller tip rockers.i used the method in the link posted by Clint s worked perfectly.good luck! I'd loosen them up until they rattle while idling, then tighten them down until the quit and go 1/2 a turn past that point let the engine idle for 30 seconds before tightening the poly locs. This assumes stock rocker arms and stock bottle neck rocker arm studs. The motor is a 400 4bbl with 6x heads. The stock one is just a torque and go thing and there are several methods of doing the other way. It is owned by a friend of mine and I'm doing some work for him. Im so used to screw in studs, i had forgotten about pressed in, had that happen on a 69 small block Chevy. Even if you have roller tip rockers? BTDC.) Please don't miss the point that unless you have some sort of locking/poly-lock rocker nuts, Pontiac factory valve trains (using the bottleneck studs) are *not* adjustable. I recently removed the heads off my Pontiac 400 block and was wondering about the valve adjustment. I think i have a vac leak. cole. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. When I installed the heads before I went by the cam install instructions. here's the procedure per chilton & clymer manuals. Come join the discussion about restoration, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more! If you must keep it running here, please support this endeavor and select a support plan - which starts at only $0.16 cents per day. Thanks. I did have a couple of pressed in rocker studs pull out in just a few miles of "spirited driving" It probably would not matter if you used all new parts like I would today, but old habbat. The Fora platform includes forum software by XenForo, VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter Street, Suite 600, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. The lock nut is torqued to the bottle neck of the stud or the end of the threads. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. right?? link to a head, CTRL and + will blow it up. Secondly the driver's side has a sheet metal shield above the rockers below the valve covers. vac gauge jumps about 4-6psi (cant remember the number, ill check again and write it down. None on the passenger side. I cant get the car to idle down to the recomended 500RPM in my book. You know I'll do it that way again and I'll only give them a half turn. In either case, the set up is not correct! You need to use a positive locking nut (poly-locks), because the stock type nuts won't hold the adjustment. If true then I should just make sure all the nuts are tight with the valve closed and reinstall the valve covers with fresh gaskets. I hate poly locs, they're a PITA to keep the setting right while locking them down, IMO. A forum community dedicated to hot rod owners and enthusiasts. Not sure I'm clear on that with regard to a Pontiac, would work for a Chevy. They will look like little fingers protruding from the top of the valve cover. Thanks Greg that is the same way I adjusted them before. Powered by vBulletin Version 4.2.3 Copyright 2022 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved. thats what im running the performer(cause i had one laying around) the XE262H with new lifters and push rods i changed to a 7/16 stud with comps roller tip rockers. I would swap the cam & lifters and reuse all the other parts. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. Last fall I tore down my Pontiac 400 "WT" motor from my 67 Firebird. I'm not asking for much. In the coming weeks I would like to change my intake as well as my lifters and would like to know if there is a simple resource (manual, web site or tip)as to how I can adjust valve lash. You are missing one or someone left it off. It may not display this or other websites correctly. Please consider whitelisting my site in your ad blocker. Tomorrow I will torque each nut to 20 ft lbs with the individual valve closed. uh i hope someone can clear this up cause i just spent 2 hours adjusting them this afternoon. They say it does not matter if the valves are open or not, but I always torque them with the valves closed. 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. If this is a stock pontiac head, the proper way to adjust the vales is to torque the nuts to 20 ft. pounds. New rings and bearings installed "just because" (I was burning oil bad from a previous low mile 0.030 rebuild) with not doing the 100,000 mile heads. It is a little messy, but works fine, did it many times took a valve cover and cut a strip out of the top to get at the nuts. just make sure of your plunger travel. Ebay typically has these. The motor has a crane cam in it with hydraulic lifters. The heads will be ready in a week and when I re-install them I would like to know from the membership on the proper way to set them up. It sounds like you've got a couple valves too tight. You are using an out of date browser. Thank you. Any suggestions? This car and engine seems all stock and won't be run hard. Thanks mike, i let the machine shop talk me into the poly locks. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. A photo of this is attached. We need to know if you have a stock cam or did you go bigger with and adjustable valve train (which you must do with a bigger cam). as long as the valve length is at the right height, assuming all else is good, the stock valve adj. To me this is the easiest way and these Pontiacs a a bit finicky when it comes to valve adjustment. Thank you to both of you. But the difference is the 1/2 turn part. What is my method of installation? View Full Version : Valve Adjustment 67' 400 with PolyLocks. Some gasket sealant or install dry? Thirdly, I purchased new cork gaskets. i really appreciate that link it will help me out alot when i do this tomorrow, but i have one question which valve is exaust and which is intake? last night i reset the dwell and timing (30 and 6degr. Turn the crank till the lifter is down, tighten the rocker till you take up the slack on the push rod, then give it 1 1/2 turns to preload the lifter??? I understand what you are saying, but I have found a couple of times when reusing used rocker parts that they did not quite work well together. the correct way to adjust rockers on aftermarket cams is to have the lobe on the flat spot of the cam, which is done one of 2 ways. If you try to use any of these procedures with the factory rocker nuts, they -will- come loose and you won't be happy with "what happens next". He takes care of it and does not drive aggressively. I'll check for the oil groove and the contact point of the rocker on the valve. Pontiac offered 3 different lengths of push rod, each .060 inch different, to compensate for valve grind, block/head surfacing, other issues like valve train variation when the engine was built at the factory. Would it be the same as a sb chevy. On a cold engine, just torque it to 20 ft/lbs Valve position doesn't matter. it goes E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E,i also am running performer,ARP7/16 straight studs,Mr Gasket poly lock with set screw. The standard "set distance" valve train is a real issue. That Vac guage reading is classic Valve adjustment too tight. The 1964-1974 Pontiac Tempest, Lemans & GTO, 1964-1974 Tempest/LeMans/GTO Engine Tuning, The Fora platform includes forum software by XenForo, www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/rockers.html. That way I can check to see if the push rods spin or not (no preload) if they spin I usually tighten them just enough to stop them from spinning. If the aftermarket cam has a different base circle, as they usually do, the plunger in the lifter is either pushed too far, or not far enough. This was when I was young and broke just trying to add some HP to a mid 70's daily driver with the smallest possible $$$ outlay. Starting with #1 cylinder, turn the engine over until the exhaust pushrod just begins to move up. A forum community dedicated to Pontiac GTO owners and enthusiasts. Is there a torque spec for these rocker arm nuts? I am disappointed that I cannot fine tune the valves. JavaScript is disabled. JavaScript is disabled. i was hoping you would chime in to since i built mine to match yours. cam or no cam. Patient: 1967 GTO Convertible with 400ci, hydraulic flat tappet lifters (assuming this because car is stock) & TH400. :thumbup: If any of the valve train components have been changed, such as the cam, you can't use the stock adjusment method. IF any of the things listed have been done, different length push rods will be needed. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, history, and more! The easiest way to do it is with the car running. https://www.google.com/search?q=intAgAEEs&biw=1089&bih=527#imgrc=h4aATxujEZIM-M: 1964-1974 Tempest, Lemans & GTO General Discussion, 1964-1974 Tempest/LeMans/GTO Tech/Electric Wiring, Service, Maintenance and Technical Discussion, 1964-1974 Tempest/LeMans/GTO Restoration Projects, VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter Street, Suite 600, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. The shields are "oil drippers" which capture the oil splashed by the rocker arms and directs it to "drip" back into the rocker arm to aid in lubricating the rocker arm ball. Is this correct? Is there anyone out there that can help me with my valve lash question. The "performance" Pontiac heads have screw in studs and guide plates from the factory, the only down side is the 7/16" to 3/8" bottle neck stud. A. Pontiac-Oakland Club International Forums. Well I'll let ya's know by the end of the week how it runs. That is it, from front to back 1,3,5 and 7 are on the driver's side 2,4,6 and 8 are on the passenger side in that order. The stock Pontiac nut bottoms out on the bottleneck portion of the rocker stud so you cant move it past that point. http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/rockers.html, Quote from: Clint s on July 20, 2009, 07:40:42 PM, http://www.78ta.com/gallery2/main.php/v/soonerta/, Quote from: SoonerTA on July 21, 2009, 09:24:15 PM. I think I gave them a full turn and a half before. 50 dollars worth of polylocks save you alot of heart ache down the road. So I figured if it was a ringseat problem, new rings would resolve it, if it was sucking oil from the worn guides that would resolve it. The other, and later method is the valve covers will have "oil drippers" spot welded to the tops and serve the same purpose. If you've got high pressure springs in the engine then yes moly push rods are cheap insurance. JavaScript is disabled. I thought the XE262H cam doesn't require an adjustable valve train?
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