Its kind of everywhere - both in plants and in cosmetic products. If you see a cosmetic product that claims that it has "Botox-like effect" then two things are almost certain: one, the product overpromises and two, it contains Argireline. It often comes to the formula as part of an emulsifier, thickener trio. However, zinc supplements are easily available, have little-to-no side effects, so supplementing them with a 30mg per day dose can still be a good idea. Just like mineral oil, it is also a by-product of refining crude oil, aka petroleum, and it is also a mixture ofhydrocarbons but with bigger (C18-90+) carbon chain length.The unique thing about petrolatum is that it is the most effective occlusive agent known today. Also used for scar treatment. The difference between "normal"Glyceryl Stearateand this guy is that the SE grade contains a small amount of water-loving soap molecules, such assodiumstearate. It's often combined with the non-volatile (i.e. It can be naturally found in geranium oil (about 30%) or rose oil (about 25%). Please try again later! Its pretty much the current IT-preservative. But even if everything is right, its not enough on its own. Also, works well to fill in fine lines and wrinkles and give skin a plump look (of course that is only temporary, but still, it'snice). A type of silicone elastomer (rubber-likematerial with both viscosity and elasticity) whose major function is forming a nice film on the skin. The theory is that it can inhibitthe activity of the 5--reductase enzyme that plays an important role in hair lossand allows a renewed growth phase of the hair. Similar to other silicones, it gives skin and hair a silky, smooth feel. A super common fragrance ingredient that can be found among others in lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot or jasmine. According to famous dermatologist, Leslie Baumann while tocopheryl acetate is more stable and has a longer shelf life, its also more poorly absorbed by the skin and may not have the same awesome photoprotective effects as pure Vit E. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of skincare big shot Vitamin C. If you do not know, why Vitamin C is such a big deal in skincare, click here and read all about it. In cosmetics, it can be used up to 1%. is drying. A Spanish University also did some research and found thatArgireline increased the level of skin moisturization and decreased both the depth and width of wrinkles "significantly". This means,Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 does have some ability to smooth wrinkles (but not as well as Botox - sorry, if we sound like a broken record). The most probable scenario for the Alge Extract is that it works as a moisturizer and emollient and it mighthave some additional anti-aging properties. It comes from coconut oil and glycerin, its light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. You can read all about the pure form here. The well-known stimulant from coffee. In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. It comes from the seeds of African Shea or KariteTreesand used as a magic moisturizer and emollient. A super common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. BG is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products. A supercommon fragrance ingredient found naturally in many plants including citrus peel oils, rosemary or lavender. It does complywith the INCI standard (the official list about how ingredients on the product labels have to be called, the thing we help you to decodehere :)), but there are about20 000 different kinds of algae and an extract from them can be made in another 10 000 ways. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). When you hear the word Soy, you probably associate it with soy sauce or tofu, not skincare. It is also used as a water repellent additive and to reduce the tackiness and stickiness of otheringredients. The unique thing about petrolatum is that it is the most effective occlusive agent known today. With thiscontext in mind let's see whatATIP might be able to do. A common fragrance ingredient with a nice rose-like smell. Once in the skin, it has nice antioxidant properties, meaning that it reduces the formation of evil free radicals and it mighteven be useful in preventing UV-induced skin cancers. There is another algae extract from another manufacturer that comes from red algae (much more common, about 40% of total macroalgae worldwide) and is claimed to have not only moisturizing but also skin smoothing and densifying effects. So now, you know that Vitamin C is great and all, but it's really unstable and gives cosmetics companies many headaches. It is a zinc salt that has research proving it to be effective againstinflammatory acne, though not quite as effective as theantibiotic minocycline (31.2% vs. 63.4% success rate). The TL; DR version of HA is that it's a huge polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) found in the skin that acts as a sponge helping the skin to hold onto water, being plump and elastic. Can be derived from coconut or palm kernel oil. As with all fragrance ingredients, citronellol can also cause allergic contact dermatitis and should be avoided if you have perfume allergy. This trio is an easy-to-use liquid that helps to create nice, non-tacky gel formulas. A not-very-interesting helper ingredient that is used as an emulsifier and/or surfactant. Form of Vitamin C, Ascorbyl Isotetrapalmitate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, ATIP, Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid;Sodium PCA. An emollient ester giving along-lasting lubricious skin feel. A type of sugar that haswater-bindingproperties and helps to keep your skinhydrated. A 2017 study compared a 0.2% caffeine liquid with a 5%Minoxidil (an FDA approved active to treat baldness) solution and found that "a caffeine-based topical liquid should be considered as not inferior to minoxidil 5% solution in men with androgenetic alopecia", or English translation means that the caffeine liquid was pretty much as good as the FDA-approvedMinoxidil stuff. Currently, algae extracts are mostly used asmoisturizing andthickening agents, but algae also have great potential to combat skin aging, pigmentation as well asworking as an antimicrobial. It is a small, water-loving molecule with pretty good skin penetration abilties. The essential oil created by steam distilling the leaves of theEucalyptus tree. But here again, the evidence that it actually makes a measurable, let alone visible, improvement on actualhuman beings is limited (we could find only some animal skin studies or caffeine being combined with other actives). rosemary, eucalyptus, lavender, lemongrass, peppermint and it's the main component (about 50-90%) of the peel oil of citrus fruits. To solve this problem they came up with vitamin C derivatives, and one of them is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (let's call it ATIP in short). As for petrolatum and safety, we can write here pretty much the exact same thing as we have written at mineral oil. Other than that, its a nice emollient that gives a smooth and soft appearance to the skin. Chemically, this is definitely not true, as the two forms are almost the same, both are polymers and the subunits can be repeated in both forms as much as you like. A film-forming and thickening polymer (a large molecule composed of many repeated subunits) that comes to the formula usually as part of an emulsifier, thickener trio. It's one of the important lipids that can be found naturally in the outer layer of the skin. If you are looking for one, this could be your thing. An often used glycol that works as a solvent, humectant, penetration enhancer and also gives a good slip to the products. Other than that its a nice emollient that gives a smooth and soft appearance to the skin. A study made in the UK with 483 people tested the allergic reaction to 3% oxidised linalool and 2.3% had positive test results. About 25% of the goopy stuff between our skin cells consists of cholesterol. A goldish to dark yellow emollient plant oil coming from Sesame seeds. An error has occurred. It's in many plants, e.g. Its mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. It is thereto promotethe absorption and bioavailabilityof zinc and also plays a role incellular regeneration (involved in the synthesis of ribose sugars, structural components of DNA and RNA). A fragrance with a sweet scent somewhere between lily and fruity melon. A stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, that might have (in-vitro results) all the magic abilities of pure vitamin C (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener). Thats why a product containing linalool that has been opened for several months is more likely to be allergenic than a fresh one. In reality, it's nowhere near that powerful, but it can smooth wrinkles to some extent by preventing facial muscles from contracting. It's quite the multi-tasker: an emollient and water-binding ingredient but also an emulsifier and can be used for stabilization purposes. It's a great ingredient to neutralize metal (especially iron and copper) ions in a cosmetic product. Among essential oils,Eucalyptus Globulus counts as rather non-sensitising with an EU sensitizer total of 5% (due to limonene). It's a super commonly used water-thin volatile silicone that gives skin and hair a silky, smooth feel. Second, because it's oil-soluble, its skin penetration abilities seem to be great. the heart of La Mer's profound powers of transformation, it penetrates deeply to replenish moisture and strengthen skin. It also imparts gloss, softness and better manageability to hair. The gluconate part is there to promote the bioavailability of copper and it alsoplays a role in cellular regeneration (involved in the synthesis of ribose sugars, structural components of DNA and RNA). Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal, Eucalyptus Globulus (Eucalyptus) Leaf Oil, simple brownalgaeextract that helps to smooth the hair, another algae extract from another manufacturer that comes from red algae, Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>, You can read all about the pure form here, A natural moisturizer thats also in our skin, A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years, Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier, Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits at higher concentrations up to 20-40% (around 10% is a good usability-effectiveness sweet spot), High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. It's probably the most hyped up natural butter in skincare today. Pretty much the current IT-preservative. A copper salt (copper cation + gluconate anion)probably best known for promoting cellular regeneration and wound healing. (We also checkedProspector for sodium hyaluronate versions actually used in cosmetic products and found that the most common molecular weight was 1.5-1.8 million Da that absolutely counts as high molecular weight). As a super well-known stimulant from coffee, tea and plenty of other soft drinks,Caffeine needs no introduction. The official descriptionin the Europiean Cosmetic Ingredientlisting is this: "an extract of various species of Algae; Extract of the Seaweed, Fucus vesiculosus, Furaceae". What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate andcheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. Good old water, aka H2O. Limonene's nr1 function is definitely being a fragrance component, but there are several studies showing that it's also a penetration enhancer, mainly for oil-loving components. The famous Vaseline orPetroleum Jelly. It's a colorless, pale yellow oil with a camphoraceous aroma used traditionally in vapor rubs to treatcoughs. It goes by the trade name "Phytodermina Lifting" that refers to two things: it's a "lifting" ingredient and it comes from plant raw materials. Its safe and gentle, but even more importantly, its not a feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben. Contains high amounts of nourishing and moisturizing fatty acids (about 38% of oleic 48% of linoleic acid). A silicone fluid that gives anonoily, easy to spread emolliencyto the formulas. This helpsto prevent discoloration of the formula over time or rancidity of cosmetic oils. The most famous and bioactive flavonoids in soybeans are the isoflavones called genistein anddiadzeinthat have potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Just like other similar fragrance ingredients (like linalool and limonene) geraniol also oxidises on air exposure and becomes allergenic. But you know, the proof is in the pudding. A so-calledfatty (the good, non-drying kind of)alcohol that does all kinds of things in a skincare product: it makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). It does smellnice but the problemis that it oxidizes on air exposure and the resulting stuff is not good for the skin. It's not a new ingredient, it has been used both as a food and cosmetics additive since the 1970s. A super commonly used 5 unit long, cyclic structuredsilicone that is water-thin and does not stay on the skin but evaporates from it (called volatile silicone). We have also browsed through Prospector to see what manufacturers sayabout their algae. What makes urea special, is that it is not only a simple moisturizer, but it is thought to be a "small-molecule regulator of epidermal structure and function" meaning that it has a bunch of extra biological activities. These isoflavones are also the ones that make soy aphytoestrogen, meaning they have a (weak) estrogenic effect. Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) Yes, it's the thing that can be found naturally in pee. Its the most commonly used version of pure vitamin E in cosmetics. Citronellol is a very common fragrance ingredient with a nice rose-like odor. A form of vitamin E that works as an antioxidant. For that to happen, there has to be water in the product and the right pH value (pH 3-4). What about the gluconate part? If you wanna become a real HA-and-the-skin expert you can read way more about the topic at hyaluronic acid(including penetration-questions, differences between high and low molecular weight versions and a bunch of references to scientific literature). Best to avoid if you have sensitive skin. It works synergistically with preservatives and helps to improvewater-resistance of sunscreens. The sodium salt form of PCA is an important skin-identical ingredient and great natural moisturizer that helps the skin to hold onto water and stay nicely hydrated. It's a commonsynthetic antioxidant that's used as a preservative.There is some controversy around BHT. It is also soothing and rich in antioxidants. In cosmetics it's quite the multi-tasker: it's an emollient and water-binding ingredient but it's also an emulsifier and can be used for stabilization purposes. Overall, soybean extract is a promising and multi-functional active, a nice addition to most ingredient lists. The large proteins give soybean extract nice skin smoothing and softening properties, while the small proteins (soybean trypsin inhibitor (STI) and Bowman-Birk inhibitor (BBI)) are thought to inhibit skin pigmentationanddelay hair regrowth. So great for skin typesin need of healing and soothing. Glasswort Extract - A plant extract that's claimed to be able to strengthen the skin barrier and provide deep moisturization effect. It is made up of 30 to 50 chemicals on average. It's also used in oral care products where itreduces the bitterness of other ingredients. Might be helpful for dark circles, puffy eyes, as well as cellulite and hair loss. These were just three random examples from three manufacturers all called Algae extract even though they all come from different algae with different claims. According to its Korean manufacturer, it contains good-for-the-skin things like betaine, amino acids and minerals and the extract can strengthen the skin barrier, increase skin recovery and provide deep moisturization effect. The generic term for nice smelling stuff put into cosmetic products so that the end product also smells nice. Its part of 200 natural oils including lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot, jasmine, geranium and it can be found in 90-95% of prestige perfumes on the market. Argireline - famous peptide that's often referred to as "Botox in a jar". Third,ATIP seems to have all three magic abilitiesof pure vitamin C: it gives antioxidant protection from both UVB and UVA rays, it increases collagen synthesis (even more than AA) and it has askin brightening effect by reducing melanogenesis by more than 80% in human melanoma cell cultures. There is, for example,an algae extract trade-named Lanablue that comes fromblue-green algae (green algae is rare, less than 1% of the total macroalgae in the world) and is claimed to have retinoid like effects(i.e. Probably themost common silicone of all. Overall, we think that caffeine is a very versatile and biologically activeingredient. If you are looking for rich emollient benefits + more, shea is hard to beat. If you are fighting acne and have looked into oral supplements, chances are that zinc gluconate sounds familiar to you. Its safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. It is a polymer (created from repeating subunits) molecule and has different molecular weight and thus different viscosity versions from water-light to thickliquid. It's a "lifting" ingredient coming from plant raw materials. In theory, it can speed up the lipolysis process (the "fat burning" by our cells) andstimulate the draining lymph system that might lead to the improvement of cellulite. A silicone fluid that gives anonoily, easy to spread emolliencyto the formulas. The authors theorized that the 10% AA is released slowly from the silicon delivery system and probably stays in the upper layer of the skin to give antioxidant benefits, while ATIP penetrates more rapidly and deeply and gives some wrinkle-reducing benefits. The study was a small (10 patients), double-blind experiment,and the formula did show some measurable anti-aging results. This is called self-emulsifying and SE in its name stands for that. This luxurious cream delivers the same radiance and renewal that made the original Crme de la Mer a legend in a supple new texture. Infused with the nutrient-rich Miracle Broth. A very common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. Other tasks include helping the product to absorb faster and deeper into the skin (penetration enhancer), making the product spread nicely over the skin (slip agent), and attracting water (humectant) into the skin. It also stimulatesantioxidant enzyme systems (mainly superoxide dismutase) and has nice wound healing abilitiesacting mainly in the first,proliferation phase. Linalool is a super common fragrance ingredient. :) It has water-binding properties, which means that it helps to keep your skin nice and hydrated. There is also in-vitro data showing that it converts to AA in the skin. Its not a strong one and doesnt really work against bacteria, but more against mold and yeast. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. Anyhow, the point is this;there are tons of different types of Algae Extracts out there. Hello, our favorite molecule that helps us wake up in the morning and then keeps us going through the day. It smells like rose and can be found in rose oil or in small quantities in geranium, lemon and many other essential oils. It sits on top of the skin and hinders so-called transepidermal water loss (TEWL) like nothingelse. reduce wrinkles, smooth skin) but without the side effects (though it seems now that the INCI name of Lanablue was changed to Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract). A 2015 research paper on thepotential of uses of algae in cosmetics summarizes that algae are rich sources of biologically active metabolites including antioxidants, anti-inflammatory agents, alginates, polysaccharides, and carotenoids. Unless you live under a rock you must have heard about shea butter. Its a great pick for creating a nice feeling product. BTW, its also a food additive. It is also cosmetically very elegant with a non-tacky, non-oily and smooth skin feel. Zinc has multiple magic abilities: it is antibacterial (including evil, acne-causingP. acnes) and sebum-regulating (5-reductase inhibitor), great for acne-prone skin types. First, it is stable (if pH < 5), easy to formulate and a joy to work with for a cosmetic chemist. An extract that comes from one or more of the 20 000 kinds of algae out there. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning its the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It's a really promising candidate (see below), but while reading all the goodness about it in a minute, do not forget that derivatives not only haveto be absorbed into the skin but also have to beconverted to pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid or AA) and the efficacy of the conversion is often unknown. We have found some recent and promising research to back this up. To do that it has to break down to its active form, sorbic acid. When you hear the word Soy, you probably associate it with soy sauce or tofu, not skincare. As for cosmetics, the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) concluded that the amount of BHT used in cosmetic products is low (usually around 0.01-0.1%), it does notpenetrate skin far enough to be absorbed into the bloodstream and it is safeto use in cosmetics. Though conventional wisdom and anecdotal evidence says that this property is helpful for dark under-eye circles and puffy eyes, we have to mention that the double-blind research we have found about a 3% caffeine gel concluded that "the overall efficacy of the selected caffeine gel in reducing puffy eyes was not significantly different from that of its gel base." The thing in the pee that is also a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) with mild keratolytic and strong skin moisturizing superpowers. There are also scar treatment gels out there using dimethicone as their base ingredient. The manufacturer claims that it moisturizes, gives the skin softness and smoothness, and helps make-up to stay on after application. Similar to many other plant oils, it contains high amounts of nourishing and moisturizing fatty acids (about 38% of oleic and 48% of linoleic acid) and is a nice oil torepair and regenerate dry skin. It acts asa mild keratolytic agent(some of its moisturizingaction is thought to come from urea's abilityto break down bonds in the protein called filaggrin and thus freeing up amino acids in the skin), enhancesantimicrobial peptide expression and improvesskin barrier function. It also works as a stable delivery system of active materials, has sebum absorption and control properties and upon application, it transforms into a matte appearance with a powdery after feel. So, Algae Extract can be anything from La Mer's "Miracle Broth" to a simple brownalgaeextract that helps to smooth the hair. It autoxidizes on air exposure and counts as a common skin sensitizer. Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products. A type fo sugar, usuallyrefined from cane or beet sugar. It's a great ingredient to neutralize metal (especially iron and copper) ions in a cosmetic product. There is some controversy around BHT. About 25% of the goopy stuff between our skin cells consists of cholesterol. This comes in handy healing cracked lips or severely dry skin patches, though overdoing it (i.e. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephenwrites on reddit "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution". Its official functions include being a humectant (helps skin to attract water), emollient (makes skin feel smooth and nice) and skin conditioner(a catchall phrase for saying it does something good for the skin). We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into. (source: manufacturer info). The problem with linalool is, that just like limoneneit oxidises on air exposure and becomes allergenic. Not bad! An oily ingredient that can magically blend with water all by itself (called Self Emulsifying). If you see potassium sorbate you should see some other preservative next to it too. And it's natural, both Ecocert and Cosmos approved. If you are more of a "let's treat this aging thing properly" type, then it's probably not your thing. Butylene glycol, or lets just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. Last, but not least, we have to write about caffeine and hair growth. Its an ingredient whose safety hasnt been questioned so far by anyone (at least not that we know about). While the occlusivity of mineral oil is in the same league as the occlusivity of plant oils, petrolatum is in a league of its own. It's also often used to create liposomes. As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. A fancy name for sugar. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer. Urea makes up about 7% of NMFs next to other things such as amino acids (40%), PCA (12%) or Lactate (12%). It's a petroleum derived emollient and thickener. It also forms a protective barrier on the skin and fills in fine lines. This increases Glyceryl Stearate's affinity for water and gives it stronger emulsifying abilities. It's one of the important lipids that can be found naturally in the outer layer of the skin. Its main active components are antioxidant phenolic acids and flavonoidsas well as small and large soy proteins. The famous Vaseline orPetroleum Jelly. It's used as anemulsion stabilizer, solvent, and a broad spectrum antimicrobial. Oxidizedlimonene cancause allergic contact dermatitis and counts asa frequent skin sensitizer. And in the skin. Emollient plant oil coming from the seeds ofSesame. A common fragrance ingredient that smells like rose and can be found in rose oil. It might also have antioxidant and skin whiting properties.
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